A trip to Rye - very photo heavy!

On Thursday, Broomfield Coach Trips organised a trip to Rye which is on the south coast, close to Camber Sands, Hastings and Eastbourne and on the southern edge of the High Weald National Park.

As usual, a bit of history first.

Rye was a very important part of England's coastal defences and is one of the confederation of Cinque Ports (I always want to pronounce that as 'sank' as do the French but it seems that it is 'sink' as in washing basin!).

Wiki says:
The confederation was originally formed for military and trade purposes, but is now entirely ceremonial. The ports lie on the western shore of the English Channel, where the crossing to the European continent is narrowest.

When the sea levels were higher, Rye was almost completely surrounded by sea.  Now it is two miles inland at the confluence of three rivers with marsh covering the area to the sea.  You can see the sea from the clock tower of St Mary's church on a good day - which it was NOT when I was there!

There's evidence that Rye was an important place in Roman times as a place of shipment and storage.  Being so close to mainland Europe made it strategically important and it is recorded in the Domesday book as a place of some significance.

There's also the story of Rye being burnt to the ground by the dastardly French and rebuilt, of the church bells being stolen and then snatched back in a daring over-the-channel raid, stories of famous smugglers and secret passages between inns, etc, not to mention a visit from Elizabeth I and there's a few pretty gruesome artefacts including a gibbet, some stocks and a man trap.

For a very small place, the old part of rye has so much to see so I'll take it one thing at a time.

The coach dropped us off at the station which is where the market was but the market was sadly disappointing.  I'm sure the rain kept some stalls away but there wasn't anything remotely interesting and I moved on pretty quickly.

Landgate.

The Landgate is the only one of four original fortified entrances into Rye and dates from 1329.  It is still the only light-vehicular entrance into the medieval centre of Rye - not that I would want to drive into Rye - one way, narrow streets, loads of people and cobbles make it tricky!

It's a most impressive structure, very gloomy and menacing in the pouring rain, classic Norman type stuff aimed at keeping the peasants in their place!

Originally it had a portcullis and a drawbridge and was built very much for defence.

There's a few shops around, including a drinking chocolate shop called Knoops which is, apparently, famous and sells all sorts of posh chocolate drinks online.

I didn't indulge but - if you are interested . . .

https://knoops.com/uk/collections/the-shop

Walking along from Landgate, there were some fine viewing points over the marshes towards the sea. 
It would have been nice to just sit and take in the views but - pouring rain . . .  

There's other great views from the Castle and from St Mary's church tower

One of the many lovely things about Rye, even in the rain, is that wherever you look there are wonderfully preserved, uneven, rickety, quaint, beautiful buildings, many of them still personal homes and obviously loved.  There were soms stunning flower displays in pots and gardens which, on a sunny day, would look fantastic.

Odd little cobbled alleyways

So many cars parking in the narrow, one way, streets

The Old Bell inn.  The website says:

Dating back to 1390, The Old Bell is a Grade II listed pub that has been part of Rye’s story for over 600 years. Nestled among the cobbled streets of this historic town, the pub still showcases its original oak-beamed ceilings and wooden floors, offering a glimpse into centuries past. In the 18th century, The Old Bell was part of Rye’s colourful smuggling history, with secret tunnels linking it to the nearby Mermaid Inn, used to discreetly move goods.

The pub’s name is a nod to a defining moment in Rye’s past. In 1377, a French raid saw the town’s St Mary’s Church bells stolen, along with widespread damage from a fire. A year later, brave locals sailed to France and reclaimed the bells, restoring a piece of Rye’s identity. 

One of many attractive buildings.

And another.

I won't inflict all the 'pretty cottage' type photos I took on you.  Suffice it to say, there are many and they are lovely!

The Heritage Centre.

It took me a while to find the Heritage Centre - if I had known there was this great big anchor outside, it would have been easier!!

Inside, there were a few displays, some very friendly people and, for such a small place, a really interesting 'sounds and light' show that told the history of Rye while highlighting different parts of an absolutely fantastic model town that took four years to make .

The whole show was about twenty minutes long and, for a fiver, great value.  I recommend it.

It was tricky to take photos - the one above and this one are the only two that remotely came out so I have borrowed a photo from the Heritage Centre site that given a much better idea of the detail and care taken in making it model.

Here's the link and, if you're in Rye and interested in history, don't miss this one.  

https://www.ryeheritage.co.uk/explore/rye-model-light-and-sound-experience/

I didn't do the Smugglers Attic bit.

Mermaid Street.

The next lot of photos are all, I think, from Mermaid Street.  A steep, cobbled lane through the centre of Rye with some very attractive buildings.

Ankle breaking territory, these cobbles, a bit slippery in the rain and I would absolutely hate to negotiate them if it was frosty or icy.

I managed fine but there were some less mobile people looking really very worried and taking it very, very slowly and carefully.

Some houses have very quirky names - this was called 'The House Opposite' (opposite the Mermaid Inn, that is) and I think the next one was called 'The house Next Door' - I think . . .

. . . after the French destruction of the town.

From their web site:

The Mermaid welcomes travellers, to enjoy the unique experience of staying in a 600 year old Inn, dining in a 2 AA Rosette Restaurant and relaxing in The Giants Fireplace Bar, The Tudor Bar, or spending time on the walled patio.

The Cellars date from 1156 and the building was rebuilt in 1420 after The Mermaid and the Town of Rye were burnt to the ground by French Raiders on June 22nd 1377.

Experience a drink in The Giant’s Fireplace Bar and imagine how the Hawkhurst Gang, local smugglers in the 1730s and 1740s, caroused in the bar. Can you see the secret passageway entrance?

I didn't go in as I wasn't planning to eat there (expensive!)

A very attractive place and I think it would be lovely to spend a few nights there, don't you?

https://www.mermaidinn.com/

St Mary's Church.

The lanes around the church were just lovely - I think they were church properly and, originally, would have housed church staff, I think.  I'm not sure though.

Again, from Wiki: 

Rye had been held by the Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy for a long time as a Royal deed of gift. This status originating from times before the Norman Conquest got lost at 1247, but until this relationship ended the profit for the parish had been so great that a large church could be built, which was called the "Cathedral of East Sussex" until recent times. During a severe raid by French marauders, the town and the parish church were looted and set on fire. The damage to the church was extensive, and the last repairs resulting from this fire were made in the 19th century. The following year a group of men from Rye and Winchelsea struck back and recovered the loot including the stolen bells. To deter potential invaders from any future attack one of the bells was hung in the Watchbell Street.The Huguenot Lewys Billiard made the "New Clock", which is one of the oldest church turret clocks that still works. It had been installed in 1561–2. A huge pendulum reaching into the church's body was added later,

It was hard to get a good view of the church as I walked round the side streets.  I did go in but didn't do the Clock Tower, partly because I was getting weary and a bit achey and partly because the view wouldn't have been anything to talk about in the rain and mist.

However, as I headed towards the castle, I turned round and - the best view I could find.  I wish it had been sunny but there you go - you can't dictate the weather.

Rye castle 

Absolutely packed with history, this comprises the Ypres tower (named for Jean d'Ypres, a cloth merchant who bought the tower in 1430), the Women's tower, the gun terrace, the medieval garden and various artefacts.  There's also an associated museum but that's only open at weekends, sadly.

Here's the web site. 

https://ryemuseum.co.uk/

By 1495, the tower had been bought back by the Rye Corporation and was used as a gaol and court hall.

A very old padlock chained onto a very old door.

It's hard to tell how pokey this cell really is but, basically, what you see is it!

Absolutely tiny and not intended for one!

There were three floors, joined by scary looking stone circular stairways.  Yes, I did, but I was very, very careful.

The rain had lifted a little bit so the view from the first floor terrace was quite good.

(I was lucky, it started again a few minutes later).

The mandatory medieval loo photograph, complete with hanging garments - I gather they thought the pong kept the bugs away!

(So glad I didn't live then)

An explanation of the Women's tower which I hope is readable.

Across the medieval garden (originally far less pretty when it was an exercise yard for prisoners, I am sure) to the Women's tower . . .

. . . and a mock up of what the women's cells were like - quite a bit nicer than the men's' I suspect.

There was an upstairs but that was blocked off.

The garden really was very nice, very fragrant with herbs and a beautiful quince tree in the corner.  A tiny space but so pretty that I took another photo - 

- towards Ypres tower.

I know I keep saying this but, in sunshine, this would have been enchanting.

(And crowded!)

The stocks!  Every old town worth its name has stocks!

The Gun Garden with a row of five or six big guns aiming out across the marshes to where those pesky French would have come . . . 

No idea if these are authentic but you have to admire the symmetry!

That was about it really and not only was it pouring but it was sweaty and humid and  I was tired and hungry so I stopped off at Simon the Pieman's for a spot of late lunch.

https://ryesussex.uk/directory/food-and-drink/tea-rooms/listing/simon-the-pieman/

The panini was average, the pot of English breakfast tea I had with it was the best ever and I was so glad to find they had seating space.

Mind you, thanks to the rain, Rye wasn't that busy.  On a sunny summer day it would have been teeming and everywhere would probably have been unpleasantly crowded.

There was just one more thing to do before going back to the coach and that was to stop off at Merchant and Mills, a fabric shop (of course) with a difference.

https://merchantandmills.com/uk/

They had what I think was their own paper patterns and, helpfully, the garments made up so you could see the finished article.
They also had some absolutely beautiful fabrics, all pure linen or linen mix and I was sorely tempted until I realised that to make the pattern I had chosen would cost me over £90 in fabric alone.  I'm just not in that league.

So I bought the pattern and am considering which of the cheap and cheerful fabrics I already have would look best.
But the fabrics were gorgeous, so, so lovely!  I spent ages just looking and touching . . . as you do.

The coach had parked by the station all day and I was the first back but was closely followed by other tired, damp, sweaty but happy people.  

The journey there had been slow as there were holdups on the M25 so the driver went in other ways and we were nearly an hour later arriving than expected - but we got there safely.  The journey back was better and, of course, we drove back in glorious sunshine!  

I would recommend a trip to Rye at any time, but probably best to go on a week day out of season,  I think spring or autumn would be delightful.

The medieval centre is very small really which means that everything is within walking distance, there are some nice little shops (I got my fridge magnet in one of them) and plenty of independent eating places.

However - you do need to be fairly fit.  It is hilly and the cobbles are quite tricky in places.  Wear sensible shoes!

Will I go back?  Yes, if I have the opportunity, I probably will.  And hope for better weather.